Countdown day 19

We are rapidly approaching the day when Santa comes into our home, sack bulging. Perhaps instead of leaving him Milk and Cookies, I will leave him a fragrance he might enjoy. Day 19 of our Christmas Fragrance Countdown takes us to the wonderful house of Serge Lutens, and one of their greatest creations, containing a secret note that may surprise you. Chergui (2005) by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake is a beautiful oriental, perfect for those chilly days when you want to be enveloped in warmth and comfort. Allow me to share Serge Lutens own poetic image.

A fire fanned by the wind, a desert in flames. As if bursting from the earth, Chergui, a desert wind, creates an effect that involves suction more than blowing, carrying plants, insects and twigs along in an inescapable ascent. Its full, persistent gusts crystallize shrubs, bushes and berries, which proceed to scorch, shrivel up and pay a final ransom in saps, resins and juices. Night falls on a still-smoldering memory, making way for the fragrant, ambery and candied aromas by the alchemist that is Chergui.

I have to say, I love this perfume and whilst I do get its drama, what I love most is its balance and contentment. We open with a duet of Iris and Rose, both erring on the Buttery and Spiced Jam sides respectively. There is an immediate and beautiful warmth to this, and you sense its depth straight away. Alongside these florals is our not so secret note, Hay! This is a sensual and sweet hay, with a nod to the sweet tooth, but not Gourmand or cloying. It sits in perfect balance with the Spice from the Rose and the slight austerity of the Iris. If this fragrance never developed beyond this opening, you would still love its invitation. Thankfully Chergui keeps its promise, and we can only marvel at the journey it takes us on. The heart brings us a Honey and Tobacco embrace, which to my nose is wonderfully nostalgic. I can remember one precise place where this smell takes me, I was about 7 years old and it makes me smile every time. Again, to balance the sweetness and keep us from melting to the ground, we have freshness and energy from musk as well as a good dose of Incense to provide a smoke. It is of course a very subtle smoke, and serves to keep the whole fragrance lifted and full of light as well as darkness. The base as you might expect, continues to enrich the experience with Amber and Sandalwood. The Amber is sweet and resinous, and feels almost as if it has its own heartbeat. The Sandalwood meanwhile, is all cream, butter and earth. These two base notes serve to raise the temperature of the whole perfume by several degrees and add to the warm Tobacco profile. All in all I consider this to be a masterpiece, full of character and colour. It is another mood fragrance, which takes you wherever you wish to be. It is decadent and lazy and needs no effort from you, other than finding your warmest and most worn leather armchair. If you are anything like me, you may also pour yourself something suitable to match. The 1972 Balvenie is probably a very fine match, if you find some, save me a drop. Happy Smelling. J xxx