Countdown day 12

We need something very special indeed for our 12th day in the Christmas Fragrance Countdown, and I have just the thing. We will travel back 93 years, and be witness to something daring and revolutionary, and I don't mean the premiere of Wozzeck in Berlin that December. I am taking us back to Paris and the arrival of one of, if not the greatest, oriental perfumes of all time. Firstly allow me to share with you Guerlain's enticing words on this fragrance: "Four centuries ago, in India, Emperor Shah Jahan fell hopelessly in love with Princess Mumtaz Mahal. He had the enchanting Gardens of Shalimar built for her and dedicated the Taj Mahal to her as well, one of the seven new wonders of the world. This incredible tale sparked the imagination of Jacques Guerlain, who created Shalimar, the first oriental fragrance in history, in 1925." As great and romantic as this tale is, I must confess that I love one of the great myths behind the creation of Shalimar, which is that it was a beautiful accident. If this myth is to be believed, Jacques Guerlain dropped some ethyl vanillin into a bottle of Jicky (another masterpiece), and loved the results so much that a new and bold wonder came into being. So why is this so wonderful, and what made it so revolutionary? We shall see. Shalimar (1925) is from the master Jacques Guerlain, and was the first true oriental. We begin with a classic duet of Lemon and Bergamot. They provide instant freshness and energy, yet they are also immediately bitter/sweet. These lead quickly to the enveloping cloud heart notes. We have a voluminous and radiant floral smoke, with a rich and buttery Iris, a slightly sweet and wonderfully herbacious Jasmine, and a hugely seductive Rose. This trio is so classical and yet done in such glorious proportions ,that you cannot help but sigh. So why the fuss, since when were these florals so bold and pivotal? Well, they are not. It is the remainder of the heart notes and the base where Shalimar works its real magic. Up till now, it has been biding its time and waiting to make its true statement. The florals are there merely to tease. Leading us into the stunning base is a Patchouli and Vetiver combo, these are both quite earthy and again on the smoky side of life, they seem to carry on the Incense of the base, and what base! We are now experiencing what this fragrance is all about. Firstly, I get a decadent Vanilla, Tonka and Amber foundation, its sweetness held in perfect balance by a delicate leather note from Birch Water, and a warming Sandalwood. Already we have a triumph, but what are we missing? Where is that note to take this fragrance into another world? Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you the mighty Civet.

Nowadays this is created synthetically, but is still masterfully constructed. For those of you who have not heard of this great aspect of perfumery, allow me to let you in on a wonderful secret. Civet is a secretion extracted from the Civet, a nocturnal mammal native to Africa and Tropical Asia.What does this extraction smell like? In its raw and untreated form, it is pure skank and It is not something you would wish to spray on. It has a fecal aspect and will make you wretch. However, in the hands of a master perfumer, and used in a nuanced way, it adds a wonderful sensuality to a fragrance, it creates a depth and slightly animalistic, raw edge. It also enriches the other notes in a perfume much like a seasoning. Shalimar therefore admitted that which was previously never admitted in perfumery, a touch of the dirty is no bad thing. Of course the current version does not contain anywhere near the same degree of Civet, nor is it the real deal. However it is still absolutely glorious, and will still give you one of the great perfume experiences of our times. I leave you a supposed saying of those days, how I wished I had smelled that first incarnation. Happy Smelling. J xxx

“There are 3 things a lady never does. Smoke, dance the Tango and wear Shalimar”.