Countdown day 8

Day 8 of our Christmas fragrance countdown is here and we venture far from the high street and into one of the most exciting houses to emerge in recent years.

Zoologist was founded in 2013 by Victor Wong and are based in Canada. They have a collection based on animals and their habitats, their habits and even our similarities to them. If you want to talk about how far the art of perfumery has come, and what real vision and daring can create, look no further. Camel (2017) by perfumer Christian Carbonnel. was launched today at Bloom London and I am wearing it already having been the first through the door, I stink and I love it! This is a treasure trove of wonderful ingredients which we will discuss. Firstly let me share this wonderful evocation from Zoologist “On a track through an unforgiving desert, starting point and destination are indistinguishable from one another. Terra-cotta hued dunes twist and writhe, their shapes ever shifting. Only the merciless sun and aloof constellations can be trusted to point the way. Weighed down by treasures; some tempting the eyes with their glittering sheen, others enticing with exotic aromas, the camel plods towards a far off marketplace. Water is but a dream now, the taste of sweet dates a distant memory. There is nothing but an endless ocean of sand.” Being an Egyptian and of questionable beauty, I certainly feel an affinity to this marvellous beast, and can envisage myself riding across the desert soaking up the most glorious views and smells along the way, not worrying about life’s various burdens. The first thing to invite my nose is a magical collection of spiced dried fruits and a cleansing smoke from Frankincense. There is also a little touch of Rose adding an earthy element to balance the brightness. In the core of this opening is a rich and sticky Palm Date. It is incredibly beautiful, and takes me straight to a market, full of warm syrups and spiced teas, and even a hint of unlikely Booze, Rum perhaps. The middle begins to take us into deeper and darker territory, where the combination of Cedar, Amber and Incense begin to work their magic. There is further depth and a sense of complexity to be found in the Myrrh and Orange Blossom. They are so beautifully blended, and lend a wonderful sense of warmth and elegance. Were it left there, this would be heavenly, but to heighten the beauty we have some extra sparkle with the addition of Cinnamon and Jasmine. If you have ever had Porridge with Date Honey and Cinnamon you will have some idea of how delicious this combo is. All in all, a middle which on its own could be a foundation to any other perfume, it is very special. Yet, we are not there yet, for this is all about the layers and until we experience the earthy delights of the base, we have only skimmed the (admittedly beautiful) surface. The base is composed around a delicate and synthesised Civet and Musk, these add a hint of animalic skank, but judged perfectly. It is an example of why these notes are not to be misunderstood and feared as is so often the case. Many of the great perfumes of yesteryear were huge animalics, Jicky and Shalimar for example would have left a huge cloud of Pissy Civet, but that just made the thing human. Here, these somehow just keep this real and earthy, and provide a sensuality you might not (hopefully) ordinarily associate with the humble Camel. The base continues its long journey with a delicate Oud note sitting atop a base of very creamy and quality Sandalwood, with an almost Ambergris like Salt/Sweet effect coming from Tonka and Vetiver. The overall impact of this fragrance was an immediate love for me. It is supremely elegant, and feels seamless from top to bottom. It also keeps changing its profile, one minute it is leather and boozy, the next it is about the Fruit and Smoke, the next it vanishes for a while to regather itself. I LOVE this house, and think they are leading the way in terms of fantastic substance equalling style and concept. They are all varied, and fearless. Yet they are share a certain DNA and exacting attention to detail, which makes you aware of how much hard work must go on behind the scenes at creating a set of standards and ideals. Another important thing, they are fun to wear, and keep you smiling, guessing, and in the case of some, laughing with glee at how well this would not go down in your day job in the office or on the central line. Get out and try it, and the others.

One final question, do you like Bats and Bananas?